Sunday, February 21, 2010

Random observations...

Just some random things I've noticed and experienced while I've been here...

Things I've seen on motorbikes:

A guy sitting passenger, carrying a live chicken under his shirt. He laughed when I did a double take.

A woman carrying two bunnies in a cage on her bike handle.

People sitting three to a bike. You should be able to manage this comfortably.

Women in heels. And skirts. Often sitting passenger - sideways, and not holding on. (When I'm passenger, I'm holding on for dear life, certain that my death is imminent.)

Small children, even toddlers, sit comfortably on motorbikes with their legs tucked up in front of them and parents sitting behind them.

I saw guy on his bike got hit by a truck. He wobbled, regained control, turned to glare, and kept driving.


Driving:

When driving, watch out for: water buffalo, chickens, pigs, tourist pedestrians who think the entire road is theirs for the taking, sleeping dogs, horses, etc.

(Note: The next few things are technically illegal, but they occur all the time and seem to be accepted.)

You do not actually have to stop for red lights. You sort of yield, but if nothing is coming, there's no point in waiting out the light if you don't feel like it.

You may drive on the wrong side of the road, provided: 1) you are on a motorbike or bicycle; 2) you stay on the curb side of the street; 3) you want to. This seems to be true especially if, to get where you want to be, you would otherwise have to drive even a few feet out of your way and do a u-turn in order to stay on the correct side of the street.

If a road is drawn with two lanes in either direction, you should make this into AT LEAST three lanes. Lane boundaries need not be obeyed. The middle of the road (where one might find double-yellow lines, for instance) is up for grabs. If you would like to use this lane for passing, please do so. Try to avoid oncoming traffic, but in case of potential confrontations, see the next "rule."

If you honk your horn, you are claiming right-of-way. Possible exception: the other vehicle is bigger than you.


Language, money and one-on-one interactions:

"Yes" does not always mean yes. It may also mean "no" or "I don't know." It is apparently impolite or considered to be unsatisfactory to simply give "no" as an answer, so take "yes" with a grain of salt. I have not yet figured out the appropriate way of saying "no," but most of the people I've met seem to give Westerners the pass on this, as long as you also smile and say "thank you."

I've been in many a photo with strangers. As a "farang" (I've heard several definitions: tourist, white person, westerner, anyone who's NOT Thai...), you will be approached by random people who will ask for a picture with you. It's a bit odd, but I suppose no more odd than the sea of farangs who go to tribal villages and want photos of the people who don't look or live like they do...

Touch (especially between women) seems to be very accepted. When I'm having a pleasant conversation with a woman, or say/do something she finds funny or flattering, she may grab my hand (and hold it for a bit), leg or shoulder while she laughs.

"Where you going?" almost ALWAYS means, "I drive a taxi or tuk-tuk and will take you there for a price. You might be able to talk me down to something reasonable if you try hard enough."

Almost every street vendor (for goods, not for food) has "special price for you," which he will often type into a calculator for you (to eliminate confusion). This is generally close to double what should actually be paid. If you say no or start to walk away, the calculator is given to you with the question, "how much you pay me?" Now it's your move.

I've been surprised by how many people will go far out of their way to help: Once, I was standing in the rain, trying to figure out where to catch my bus, and a woman asked me where I was headed, took me by the hand and walked me to where I needed to be, then interpreted for me. (This type of kindness has been very common, and incredibly appreciated.)

My pronunciation (if I don't have someone to copy who pronounces it correctly) is so terrible that I was sent to a bus for Phuket when I was trying to ask for a bus to Kanchanaburi. However, if someone says a word slowly and lets me copy them, I am generally complimented on my pronunciation the next time I say it. Lesson: Thai needs to be learned orally, not from a book.

ATMs dispense 1,000 baht notes by default. (I finally figured out that if I ask for 1,900THB, I will at least get a 500 note and four 100 notes, which is helpful, but any fast-cash options will be in multiples of 1,000.) After going to an ATM, it is wise to stop at 7-11, buy water or snacks for 20 or 30 baht, and get change. Otherwise, you will have a hard time spending your "big money." Even 100s can be tough to spend. A taxi driver charging 60 baht will scoff and ask for "small money!" if given 100 baht and asked for change. Since many food and drink options cost between 10 and 30 baht, it is good to have 20s on hand, as well as 1, 2, 5, and 10 baht coins.

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Interpreter. Lover of mountains who's happy to be back in CO but really misses DC. Traveler with an extra-squishy soft spot for orphaned kids.